Tag Archives: walking

Embalse de Alcantara to Canaveral

I woke to wind on the water and it felt great as I climbed up, up, up the rocky hills until I was far above the lake. I walked on high ridges with grasslands all around me, contra de viento, or against the wind.  In the distance the village of Canaveral nestled into the hillside.

The tiny town of Canaveral was friendly. The whitewashed houses are topped by an interesting variety of stucco chimneys punctuating the sky. I am amazed that these little villages provide free accommodation to Pilgrims. This Albergue is an apartment that might be termed “rustic”, but it has 3 rooms with 2 beds each, a kitchen and a bathroom. It is free, and the man who runs the bar at Hostal Malaga gave us the key. He fed the Pilgrims wonderful food at his bar, and took care of us with a smile.

On my walk about town this afternoon I encountered the local band practicing for the processions they will hold during Easter week. This is the beginning of Santa Semana, or Holy Week, the 7 days before Easter Sunday. Tomorrow is Palm Sunday. Musicians of all ages marched, played and drummed their way through the streets. Villagers  leaned out of their windows, followed along, or watched from the square. The local Padre welcomed them to the 14th Century Romanesque church that dominates the town. It seemed everyone in town was involved in one way or another. This was a very fun and authentic slice of small town Spanish life.

On a narrow cobbled street, sitting with her friend in front of her whitewashed house, I met Maria. She is a tiny lady with white hair and an engaging smile. I am only 5’3″ tall and I towered over her like an Amazon. I told her I was a Pilgrim. She took one look at my feet and decided I needed to sit down. We went into her house and she gave me water at the dining room table. I learned that her husband died 3 years ago and she is very sad. I sympathized and we moved on to her 3 daughters, 1 son,  their spouses, and multiple grandchildren. I got to see first communion photos and learned that 2 of her grandchildren are adopted from China. Her house was small but very cool and lovely. The tile on the floors and walls was beautiful, and her little space consisted of a living / dining room, 2 bedrooms with Jesus over the headboards, a kitchen and a bath. Her back terrace had olive and lemon trees, and looked up at the rocky mountain that rises above the town. When we concluded our visit she directed me the opposite direction that I needed to go. She said it would be easier on my feet, and her heart would not be able to take the stress worrying about me if I ventured the steep way. I felt so honored by this sweet interlude, the welcome to her home, and the touching of hearts.

Distance from  Embalse de Alcantara to Canaveral= 9  Miles / 14 Kilometers

Actual Distance Walked= 12.2 Miles / 20  Kilometers

Accommodations= Municipal Albergue, rustic. 6 places, kitchen, free. Pick up the key and get your stamp in the Bar / Hostal Malaga on the main road leaving town. You may also stay at the Hostal Malaga for 15 Euro.

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El Real de la Jara to Monesterio

The albergue in Monestario is closed, so we left a note in hideous Spanglish for the Senora asking to reserve a room for us at the Bar/Hostal Extremadura. There are many pilgrims competing for a few rooms, so off we went with a hope and a prayer under the pre-dawn violet skies. A crescent moon hung over the Castle as the quiet, stone lined lanes meandered across the hills. The hills were again filled with sheep tended by fierce dogs. We have left the province of Andalucia and entered Badjoz. The landscape is again changing to a more open and bare environment. The mountains are to the west now, and there is little shade.

Just as my feet were beginning to really hurt, a man roared up in a car motioning to us  and began speaking excitedly in German / Spanish. The senora did, indeed, make our reservations and we were meeting the owner of the hostel, Eduardo. He offered to take our mochillas, or backpacks, ahead for us. I was out of my pack before you could say, “It’s another Camino Miracle!” Ask and the Camino provides. The temperature was in the upper 90*’s F, so it was a relief to feel the breeze on our backs without the extra weight of our packs. I felt as light as the lambs cavorting in the nearby pastures.

It was a day of contrasts in walking. We had to navigate some ugly areas and busy freeway interchanges. Walking along the side some busy secondary roads and next to freeways was hair raising. The pavement is hard on the feet as well as intensifying the heat. It is not all pretty on the Camino, but such is life. In general, the friends of the Camino have done a fantastic job keeping us in the countryside and along quiet lanes.

At Monestario we took a rest day, or “Lay day”, as Judy would say. This is definitely the center of pig  country. The main industry  is raising pigs and turning them into the famous Iberian Hams, or Jamon Iberico. One of the merchants had a good sense of humor, combining the name of the town (Monesterio) with  ham (Jamon) on the front doors of his export business.

Judy is such a kick and I am so glad we have teamed up. We were sitting outside of the hostel, having just discovered that the bar and restaurant by the same name were all seperate, yet shave a building and a sign. Judy looked up with a puzzled look on her face and said, “Ayah, how’re ya supposed ta know? That sign up there has a different name yet. It says C L I M A T I C A CI O N ….” I said, “Um, that means air conditioned, or climate controlled.” We all laughed until our sides ached. I had to admit that the only reason I know the word Climatication is because when my son, Justin, and I were here when it was 120 degrees. W e would look for those signs and not stay anyplace with out it. The irony is that the air conditioners are fiendishly effiecient. It is so arctic inside that you have to sleep with all the blankets, towels, your coat, and anything else you can find in order to not freeze to death!

Distance from El Real De la Jara to Monesterio = 12.6 Miles

Actual Distance Walked=16.22 Miles

Accommodations= Bar / Hostel Extremadura, 12 Euro per person, double room over the bar with a private bathroom, and clotheslines on the roof.

There is a small Albergue in town, but it was closed in April 2011.


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