It was dark and overcast as I crossed the lovely 14th century medieval bridge out of Galisteo. At the first round about I detoured down a lane, through a cow pasture, under the freeway and finally back to the secondary road. Farmers kept pointing me down the road so I walked on pavement for 8 miles, all the way to Carcabosco. I learned a new phrase today: a la carretera, or on the paved road. Ouch!
I had reached Carcabosco by 9:30 in the morning. I thought, “I can do this long stretch if I really want to.” So off I went, finding at least 8 yellow arrows within 10 feet when I had not seen one for miles. The track climbed steeply and there were fantastic views of the green, rolling hills and the surrounding towns. The way was lined with stone fences. The fences and huge boulders that punctuate the land, covered in green moss. It seemed like a micro-climate because it was very moist and green in the hilltop oak forests. Many brooks and ponds sparkled brightly in the pastures. It was an enchanting landscape filled with the sound of cow bells and coo coo birds. I was totally alone on one of the most remote stretches of the Camino, feeling unburdened, lighter and happy. I had visions of meeting someone on a beautiful horse who needed a riding partner to Santiago. Even though it rained very hard it was beautiful. I sheltered under trees and waited for the rain squalls to pass, then marched on. The mists hung in the trees, lifting and settling back in to make the countryside soft and soothing.
After many kilometers I hit the main road again and learned that the Albergue was 6 kilometers further on pavement with cars blasting past and little shoulder to walk on. When I finally reached the Albergue my friend Kess, the Dutch Pilgrim, answered the door! There was only one place left, because people are booking ahead. The Pilgrims have increased during Holy Week because the Spanish people have the week off work and many are walking. One place was enough for me. It’s another miracle, because I could not have walked on.
I had walked over 20 miles in the rain, by myself, over mountains and main roads. I felt very tired and my feet hurt like the devil, but I also felt very proud of myself.
Distance from Galisteo to Olivia de Plascencia= 20.03 Miles / 32.5 Kilometers
Actual Distance Walked= 21.17 Miles / 34 Kilometers
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